[london.food] [REVIEW] Trengilly Wartha, Constantine, nr.Falmouth

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From: Simon Wistow
Subject: [london.food] [REVIEW] Trengilly Wartha, Constantine, nr.Falmouth
Date: 10:27 on 14 Aug 2003
(warning - I was tired and this was a couple of weeks ago so my memory 
may be a little hazy)

Recently I was down in Cornwall and got taken to the Trengilly Wartha, 
several times winner of the Good Pub Guide 'Pub of the Year' award which 
is also particularly noted for it s food and the scenery round it.

Four of us trooped in, closer to drinking up time than we would have
liked, to be presented with a charming old pub. And when I say charming
I don't mean in an "imported all our memorabilia from pub-fittings.com"
kind of way. We procured several pints of very fine local ale and a
fantastic glass of house wine (more on that later) and perused the menu.

A brief aside into the atmosphere. I've always had a soft spot for pubs 
I could call 'my local' - to the point that I went to a pub nearby one 
of my houses more because they recognised me rather than because it was 
the best one. 

The Trengilly has that atmosphere instantly - none of this musics-stops, 
darts hang in mid air, locals all turn to stare at you, "we don't like 
yor kind around 'ere" stuff. Standing at the bar the staff were 
icnredibly friendly and we started chatting to one of the locals. When 
we asked if the kitchen was still open we were told that it was closing 
in 5 minutes but that we needn't hurry.

So, to the menu.

It was fantastic. 

Ok, so I was slightly biased because I was starving but I don't think 
that there was a single thing on there that I didn't want to eat. Plenty 
of fresh fish in a variety of styles, local lamb, the obligatory bangers 
and mash (which looked amazing when they wafted past - very plump and 
juicy and .... droool).

We settled upon two orders of fresh sea bass on a buttery merguez 
cassoulet - the fish was succulent but firm and the cassoulet was to die 
for, the spicy sausage really setting off the flavour of the fish.

Cornish lamb was perfectly pink in all the right places, not too fatty 
and stuffed with fresh herbs and came with a good selection of fresh 
vegetables.

My shredded crab with garlic, chilli, flat leave parsley and a type of 
square flat pasta, which I *think* is called linguiata, was, for want of 
a better word, divine. The crab was extremely fresh and meaty and the 
chilli was subtle yet string in a way that I can only ever dream about 
achieving - punchy enough to complement the meat and add a bit of zing 
but without ever threatening to overwhelm the crab meat. This is usually 
a starter but was made into a main course without blinking an eyelid.

The wine deserves a special mention - the pub has a deal with local wine 
merchant and looked to have what looked like close to hundred or more 
different types. The house red, which I'm afraid I've forgotten the name 
of, was a gorgeously fruity merlot with raspberry overtones that really 
worked with the lamb.

A chocolate pudding with custard for afters was creamy and eggy and even
tempted me which considering I'm not the world's greatest custard fan is
an achievement

Drinks were much cheaper than London - 3 beers and a large glass of wine 
came to about 7 or 8 pounds. Main courses ranged between 8 and 12 pounds 
if I remember correctly, starters and desserts being about half of that. 

To be honest it was a realstruggle not to keep going back each night we 
were in Cornwall and, if you're ever in the area then I thoroughly 
reccomend it even if it is out of your way. After all they also run a 
guest house and in other reviews I've read their Full English breakfasts 
have been raptourously eulogised.

Simon

-- 
act like nothing's wrong

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