[london.food] McGee on Poaching

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From: Rev Simon Rumble
Subject: [london.food] McGee on Poaching
Date: 21:50 on 31 Jan 2006
From "McGee On Food and Cooking", Harold McGee, ISBN 0-340-83149-9:

*Poached Eggs* A poached egg is a containerless, soft-cooked egg 
that generates its own skin of coagulated protein in the first moments 
of cooking.  Slid raw into a pan of already simmering water--or cream, 
milik, wine, stock, soup, sauce, or butter--it cooks for three to five 
minutes, until the white has set, but before the yolk does.

_The Problem of Untidy Whites_ The tricky thing about poached eggs is 
getting them to set into a smooth, compact shape.  Usually the outer 
layer of thin white spreads irregularly before it solidifies.  It's 
helpful to use fresh Grade AA eggs shelled just before cooking, which 
have the largest proportion of thick white and will spready the least, 
and water close to but not at the boil, which will coagulate the outer 
white as quickly as possible without turbulence that would tease the 
thin albumen all over the pan.  Other conventional cookbook tips are not 
very effective.  Adding salt and vinegar to the cooking water, for 
example, does speed coagulation, but it also produces shreds and an 
irregular film over the egg surface.  An unconvenional but effective way 
to improve the appearance of poached eggs is simply to remove the runny 
white from the egg _before_ poaching.  Crack the egg into a dish, then 
slide it into a large perforated spoon and let the thin white drain away 
for a few seconds before sliding the egg into the pan.

_Timing Poached Eggs by Levitation_ There's a professional method for 
poaching eggs that also makes great amateur entertainment.  This is the 
restaurant technique in which eggs are cracked into boiling water in a 
tall stockpot, disappear into the depths, and--as if by magic!--bob up 
to the surface again just when they're done: a handy way indeed to keep 
track of many eggs being cooked at once.  The trick is the use of 
vinegar and salt (at about 1/2 and 1 tablespoon respectively for each 
quart of cooking water, 8 and 15g per liter) and keeping the water at 
the boil.  The vinegar reacts with bicarbonate in the thin white to form 
tny buoyant bubbles of carbon dioxide, which get trapped at the egg 
surface as the proteins coagulate.  The salt increases the density of 
the cooking liquid just enough that the egg and three minutes' worth of 
bubbles will float.

-- 
Rev Simon Rumble <simon@xxxxxx.xxx>
www.rumble.net

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